Today we’re going to cover the next part of construction of the Sabina Skirt. Hopefully you found part 1 helpful (if you missed it, it’s here and covers getting started and constructing the pockets) and the next part will bring you that much closer to finishing your skirt.
To be honest, you’ve pretty much covered the most fiddly part of the construction- the part which gets you up and down between the machine and ironing board between every step! Actually, you’re still going to be going between the machine and the ironing board but thats because pressing (ironing) is such an essential part of sewing.
Anyway, less chit-chat. Let’s get on it!
As a reminder- I’ll post these blog posts a bit at a time so you don’t get too overwhelmed, but feel free to take a break at any point (or carry on if you want to!)
REMEMBER: sewing is a learning curve. If something doesn’t make sense or it feels like everything is going wrong, just take a step back. Even the most seasoned sewer will have to reach for the seam ripper at some point or will step away from on a project when it gets too much. Come back to it later and if you prefer a different way to sew up the skirt- go for it! It’s yours!
The best way to use these photos is to pull them up alongside the drawings- sometimes its best to have both to help you understand something. Plus the main instructions will have the bulk of the detail.
Before we begin
Note that all the seam allowances* in this pattern are 1cm (⅜ inch) except for the ruffle hem. Back stitch* at the start and at the end of a line of stitching.
You’ll be sewing the skirt up with a straight stitch with a suggested stitch length of 2.5-3.0mm (but test to see what works best for your fabric). If you get skipped stitches/uneven sewing, think about using a new machine needle or swapping out for a different type according to your fabric.
*See the instructions PDF for a more detailed explanation of these terms
Right side of fabric: the side of the fabric that you intend to wear on the outside
Wrong side of the fabric: the side of the fabric that will be on the inside when worn
Main Skirt Construction
10. Lay the back skirt onto the front skirt, right sides together and pin along both side seams, making sure the notches match.
The curved edge may need to be need to be eased together gently. Stitch the side seams.
Finish* the seams. Press towards the back of the skirt.
*See the instructions PDF for a more detailed explanation of these terms
11. Lay the two waistband pieces on top of each other with the right sides facing together. Pin along the short edges and stitch. Finish the seams and press open.
12. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise, along the long edge, this time- wrong sides together. Match the notches and side seams. Press.
Now we’re going to attach the waistband to the skirt.
13. Working from the right side of the skirt, place the waistband on top so that the raw edges are together (there will be three layers here). Match the notches and side seams, and pin in place.
14. Starting from the centre back notch, sew the waistband in place, going around the waist. Stop 5 cm before you reach the beginning of your stitching and backstitch*. This will leave a small gap between the waistband and the skirt.
15. Fold the waistband up and then press, pressing the seam allowance down towards the skirt.
16. Give your elastic a stretch and cut it down to the right length.
This depends on personal preference but a rough guide is 2.5cm (1inch) less than your waist measurement. Attach a safety pin to one end and pull through the waistband casing through the gap we left in the last step.
Be careful not to lose the loose end of the elastic and keep the elastic flat (without any twists).
17. Once you’ve thread the elastic the whole way you can safety pin the two edges together and check the fit of the waistband by trying it on. You may want to shorten the elastic for a tighter fit.
Once you’re happy with the fit you can secure the elastic by overlapping the edges by 2.5cm and stitching a square with a cross through it or two parallel lines of zig zag stitching.
18. Close up the gap from step 14 by pinning the waistband and skirt together and stitching across the gap.
You might find this easier to do by pushing the waistband back down towards the skirt. Now that the elastic is in the waistband you may need to stretch it out flat as you sew.
19. Finish the seam and distribute the gathers evenly across the waistband
20. To stop your elastic from twisting you can stitch it in place along the side seams of the waistband or ‘stitch in the ditch*’. *See the instructions PDF for a more detailed explanation of these terms.
Nearly there
We are so close to finishing! The next step is the ruffle hem which I think adds a real special swish to our skirt. But of course, if ruffles aren’t your thing (which I get seeing as ruffles are everywhere right now) you could just hem it and leave it as it is!
But if you do want the ruffle then I would suggest taking a little break here. Gathering is not my favourite thing in the world and as much as I like to just power through it, I also know I get my best results when I take a break. Whether it’s a loo break/snack break or coming back to it another day- go stretch those legs, flex those tired fingers and get yourself ready for the final part of the sew-along!
Don’t forget to tag me if you make the skirt- IG @thelittlepomegranate and use the hashtag #SabinaSkirt so I can see your gorgeous makes!
If you haven’t yet downloaded the pattern, don’t worry! Just hit subscribe here via MailChimp and it will wing its way over to you*
Love,
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